‘A new version of the Oasi specifically adapted to the anatomy of the female foot. When we started out on ‘project OASI’ we wanted to create a curved climbing shoes that works as well on friction slabs and vertical walls as it does on overhanging routes and boulder problems, and to achieve this we had to re-think our whole design process and invent new technologies. The final result is a shoe of stunning precision providing levels of comfort previously unheard of in such high-end models’. TENAYA
Following the success of the Oasi, Tenaya decided to launch a low volume version the Oasi LV.
Tenaya have always been renowned for producing unbelievably comfortable performance shoes, launching in 2018 the Oasi LV was designed to fit a narrower foot type. Soft and sensitive downturned in nature the Oasi LV is at home either on the plastic or on the rock, offering good precision on small footholds and good smearing ability the Oasi LV is a fine all-rounder.
Pitched at the more advanced climber, I feel that the Oasi LV is more than suitable for the intermediate climber, the soft (vegan friendly) micro fibre upper has a snug but comfortable feeling against the skin, while the shoe is downturned the soft nature of the build allows the foot mould into a more natural position rather than being forced into an uncomfortable downturned shape. This more neutral foot position coupled with the sensitivity of the 3.5mm of Vibram rubber makes the shoe incredibly versatile on all different hold types perfect for training indoors.
The downsides to having such a soft sensitive shoe is for the heavier climber (70kg+) the support on smaller edges is just not there, they would need a slightly stiffer shoe to keep the tension in the foot to support throughout a climbing session.
The Oasi LV is certainly more suitable for lighter climbers, which also makes this a perfect progression shoe for younger climber who requires a more advanced shoe but because of potential damage caused by tight shoes must be selective.
The fit of the Oasi LV is narrow with a shallow heel cup hence the suitability for younger climbers whose feet tend to be narrow and of a shallow depth. The size range is great (1-13 with all half sizes), this is fantastic for all climbers that have narrow feet, not just female and younger climbers that LV climbing shoes tend to be marketed too.
The Oasi LV is certainty at home in the indoor environment where many climbers find themselves doing the majority of their climbing, either smearing on volumes or bedding into small edges, the shoe will defiantly meet the climbers needs.
Uppers – Microfibre
Closure System – Velcro patented Draxtor system.
Tongue – Lycra, two-layer and bidirectional
Cover – Unlined
Insole – 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
Midsole – Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
Sole – Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm.
Weight – 340 gr.
Sizes – 1-13 (UK) with half sizes
RRP £130 / £117 with Parthian Climbing membership
If the Oasi LV has piqued your interest, get yourself down to any of the Parthian Climbing centres to speak to our team and try a pair on.
Blog written by Ed Mills-Dilkes, Southern Retail Manager